Good news! This step is pretty short and sweet, and repeats a lot of what we covered in the last post. For those reasons, originally, I was going to include this step in with the Quilt Top assembly. But ultimately, I decided to keep it separate 1) to give you all more time, and 2) because things get pretty hairy when you assemble the top, and I wanted to keep those directions as simple as possible. I think breaking out the rows as a separate piece will make things a lot more manageable, and keep everyone's hair intact and on their head ;)
Alright. So the first step is to find all your blocks for the first row and lay them out exactly how they need to be pieced. Refer back to the pattern if you have any questions about the layout.
Take your first two blocks, and line them up along their center seams (you should still be able to see the seams you pressed with your iron when assembling the blocks).
Just like you did when assembling the blocks, start at the center and align the edge of the center medallion with the outside curve of the 1st block, pinning as you go.
As you reach the ends where the intersection squares meet up, make sure the seams line up. If they aren't, it will be very noticeable once you finish sewing and flip the blocks back over.
Here's another angle.
Now, one thing you might notice once you get to the end is that the intersection squares don't seem to line up properly. THIS IS GOOD. In fact, the one on top should be exactly 1/4" too long. We aren't trying to match the raw edge of the top intersection square with the finished seam of the bottom intersection square. Instead, we want to match it up with the raw edge of the bottom intersection square....the one that tucked away neatly below the finished seam. You want to make the raw edges of both squares line up like you see in the picture below.
Why is this? Because we'll need this extra 1/4" as a seam allowance when attaching the 1st and 2nd rows together. Dont' worry - it will all make sense when we start assembling the quilt top in 2 weeks. Promise.
Alright. Now flip your block back over to the side with the paper templates (mine has been flipped over, you just can't tell in the photo because there's no paper on the intersection squares - only the arcs). DO NOT start sewing at the raw edge of the intersection square. We need that 1/4" overhang free for when we attach the rows.
Instead, start sewing at the seam that's 1/4" down from the edge. See photo below.
When you're finished, flip the block back over and press the seam flat. You block should look perfectly lined up, except for that one 1/4" seam allowance dangling past the edge on each side of the block.
Grab your 3rd block and line it up with your fledgling row. Repeat the same steps you used to attach the 1st and 2nd blocks.
When you're finished, the row should now look something like this...
Grab your 4th and final block (nosey dog not required for this step) and attach just as you did the others.
Congratulations! You've completed your first row! Row 3 is an exact duplicate of this one, but rows 2 and 4 are much easier to assemble because they contain only partial blocks and there aren't as many complicated seams to match up.
In case you want a better look at the finished product, here's a closeup of the front...
...and a shot of the back as well.