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August 31, 2011

Quilted Hexie Pouch Tutorial


Howdy ho neighbors! I'm Kaelin from The Plaid Scottie and I'm collaborating with my favorite Canadian Kristie to bring you a Quilted Hexie Pouch for her fabulous Bag Lady Week! The finished pouch measures about 7.5" x 7.5"

SUPPLIES

First of all, you'll need to sew together a small panel of 2" hexies - 23 to be exact. The finished hexie will be about 1.5". If you need paper piecing templates for that size, you can create free ones here. Just type in 0.75" in the "Hexagon Size" box and hit "Download PDF". The panel will have five rows with this many hexies in each (starting with row 1):  5 - 4 - 5 - 4 - 5. Refer to the 2nd photo down if you need a visual. If you've never made hexies before, then you can check out my other tutorial here for instructions. The finished panel should measure 5.25" x 5.75".

In addition to that you'll need:

(1) 9" zipper

Exterior Fabric (I used linen)
(2) 1.25" x 5.75" pieces
(2) 6.75" x 1.75" pieces
(1) 1.5" x 8.25" piece
(1) 8.25" x 8.25" piece
(1) 2" x 14" piece, with a medium-weight interfacing fused on the back (for wrist strap)

Lining Fabric (I used Orange Kei Dots)
(1) 1.5" x 8.25" piece
(1) 6.75" x 8.25"
(1) 8.25" x 8.25" piece

Flannel (I used white, but you might want a different color depending on your fabric choices)
(1) 1.5" x 8.25" piece
(1) 6.75" x 8.25" piece
(1) 8.25" x 8.25" piece

Note: You might notice throughout the photos that I have interfacing on the back of my exterior fabric. You won't need interfacing if you use regular quilting cotton, because the pouch is sturdy enough without it. I only used interfacing because I was working with linen and it keeps the fabric from stretching and distorting.

Alright. Let's get this party started. Grab you hexie panel. It should be sewn together just like the picture below.


Once you have your hexie panel sewn together, you'll need to square it off by trimming the ends. The top and bottom are fairly easy - just lop off the pointy ends. But on the sides, you'll need to fold out the seam allowances on the hexies in the short rows (the two rows with only 4 hexies). 


Once the seam allowances have been pressed out, line up your ruler with the edge of the seam allowance and trim off the excess.

 
 Grab your two 1.25" x 5.75" pieces and sew them onto the top and bottom of your hexie panel.


Press your seams to set in place. 


Attach the two 1.75" x 6.75" pieces to the sides and press to set.


Grab your three flannel pieces and coat with a spray adhesive like 505. You can pin, but with something this small, it's much much easier to spray baste. I keep a cardboard box lid in my sewing room just for spraying small projects like this.


Grab your 6.75" x 8.25" flannel piece (leave the other two where they are) and place your hexie panel on top of it. Press to adhere. 


Quilt the flannel and hexie panel. I used free motion, but you can quilt it however you like - straight line, etc.


Here's a view of the back so you can get a better look at the quilting. 


 Grab your other two pieces of flannel and match them up with their corresponding exterior pieces. Quilt.


 Now find your 6.75" x 8.25" lining piece. Layer as follows: Lining (right side up), zipper (right side up and centered), hexie panel (wrong side up). The zipper should be running across the top, 8.25" side.


Make sure the zipper pull is hanging off the end, and pin the layers in place.


Sew together using a 1/4" seam allowance. 


Fold the lining back and press both sides in place. You might have to tug the fabric down a little before ironing. 



Top stitch (about 1/8") from the edge.



Grab your remaining exterior and lining pieces and repeat the same process (layer lining (right side up), zipper, and exterior (wrong side up) - just like you did on the other side of the zipper).


 Pin in place and sew 1/4" seam. Unfold, press and top stitch.



Move the zipper pull over a little, and sew the two sides of the zipper together to keep them from pulling apart too far. If you look below at the right end of the zipper (the part that's hanging off), you can see my stitches where I sewed across the zipper. When you're done, go ahead and open the zipper 2/3 of the way.


 Now grab your 2" x 14" interfaced piece. Fold in half and press.


 Unfold, and tuck the edges in toward the center seam you just made.



Fold in half along the original center seam you made and top stitch down the open end. It should be about 1/2" wide and look like the photo below.


Fold the strap in half and place the raw ends about 1" below the zipper. Fold the lining back so it doesn't get caught in the seam, and attach the strap to the exterior with an 1/8" seam. Doesn't have to be fancy - it's just to hold the strap in place until we sew the pouch together.



Next you'll layer as follows:  remaining 8.25" x 8.25" lining piece (right side up), exterior hexie panel (right side up), remaining exterior panel (wrong side up). Pin and sew all three pieces together along the top side only using 1/4" seam.


Now fold your exterior panels back so that they're right sides together. Sew a 1/4" seam along the bottom only.


Repeat for the lining panels, leaving about a 3" opening in the center. 



Now fold all the layers back together so that they make a wholesome and delicious fabric sandwich.


Sew ALL four layers together along the sides, starting 1/4" from the top and ending 1/4" from the bottom. I brought out big momma walking foot for this job because of how thick the layers are together, and I recommend you do the same. When you get to the zipper, sew over it, and then back up and run over it again to make sure it's good and dead secured. You'll actually end up going over it three times once you go forward, hit reverse, and then go forward again. Do this for each side of the pouch.


Your pouch should now look like the photo below. Trim the four corner and excess zipper to reduce bulk.


Trim the corners and excess zipper, then turn the bag right-side out through the opening in the bottom of the lining.


Then sew the opening shut with a teeny tiny seam.


Finish turning your bag right-side out and you're done - YAY!

Color Burst Quilt

Color Burst Quilt (front) 

I finally did it! I designed my first quilt pattern and I'm crazy excited about it. I feel like Will Ferrel in that scene in Elf when he runs in, flings his hat across the room and shouts "I'm in love! I'm in love! And I don't care who knows it!"

Even better, I'm putting together a pattern and hope to have it in my Etsy shop within the next week or two. Super excited!

I made it for the Modern Quilt Guild's Project Modern: Challenge 4. I've been wanting to try my hand at patterns for a while, especially throughout the different Project Modern Challenges, but always ran into two problems...1) I never had the time because I was busy working on a bajillion other projects, and 2) the designs that pop into my head rarely translate well into fabric. But one day, when I was driving home from work, I randomly started thinking about bar graphs...and how cool that might look as a quilt block. One thing led to another, and I ended up with "bar graph" blocks set at a 45 degree angle that formed little bursts! It was a beast designing them in EQ7, and even more of a beast deciding on the construction. I went through about 4 different piecing methods starting with 18" blocks set on point and trimmed, and ended up with a much easier (and more accurate) paper piecing method.

For the back I used Kona Ash and the leftover prints from the front. I cut them into strips and pieced them so they'd look like a precariously stacked tower of books. I wanted it to look wonky, but just sturdy enough to stay upright (if it were a real stack of books).

Color Burst Quilt (back)

The binding is more of the red Joel Dewberry Baskets

Color Burst Quilt (binding) 

I was feeling lazy when it came time for the quilting, so I almost copped out and did free motion as usual, but I felt this quilt deserved some straight line quilting to augment the design. I'm so glad my laziness didn't win out this time, lol!

Color Burst Quilt (back detail)


And since it's kinda hard to make out the block design from the first photo, here are some more detail shots  of the front. Each "burst" is made out of 4 blocks, so there are 16 blocks total (finished quilt measures 48" x 48")

Color Burst Quilt (front detail) 

Color Burst Quilt (front detail)

Help me readers!

I've been wanting to move my blog to a personal domain for a while now, and my husband has been encouraging me to do so. Problem is, I have almost no knowledge when it comes to web design...but I learn quickly and feel it's something I can probably do myself if I put in the time. I've been watching videos on Don't Fear the Internet and they've helped a lot, but I'm looking for something more extensive. Any suggestions on good print materials or sites that would help my cause? Free text editors that rock?

Thanks in advance :)

xoxo Kaelin

August 30, 2011

Bag Lady Week


I made a new tutorial for my friend Kristie's Bag Lady Week! It's a Quilted Hexie Pouch measuring about 7.5" x 7.5". She'll be posting a new bag tutorial every day this week, and she already has the first two up and running. You should definitely pop by her site each day (or become a follower so you get reminders *wink*).

The directions for my bag will be up on Thursday (don't worry - I'll remind you). I'll also be giving away a copy of my new Grab 'n' Go Wristlets Pattern - woo hoo!

The bag above has been added to my shop.

August 29, 2011

Baby Steps

Future Apron

Remember when I mentioned last week that I'd be posting an Apple Core Apron tutorial soon? Well I'm taking baby steps toward my goal! I got all my fabric cut and arranged this weekend. I think I'm gonna use more of that Blue & Green dot print for the waist band and backing. Whaddya think?

I also need to add a pocket, which I think will end up being one of the two yellow prints....decisions, decisions!

August 27, 2011

DWR Quilt Along: Assembling a Row

Good news! This step is pretty short and sweet, and repeats a lot of what we covered in the last post. For those reasons, originally, I was going to include this step in with the Quilt Top assembly. But ultimately, I decided to keep it separate 1) to give you all more time, and 2) because things get pretty hairy when you assemble the top, and I wanted to keep those directions as simple as possible. I think breaking out the rows as a separate piece will make things a lot more manageable, and keep everyone's hair intact and on their head ;)

Alright. So the first step is to find all your blocks for the first row and lay them out exactly how they need to be pieced. Refer back to the pattern if you have any questions about the layout.



Take your first two blocks, and line them up along their center seams (you should still be able to see the seams you pressed with your iron when assembling the blocks).



Just like you did when assembling the blocks, start at the center and align the edge of the center medallion with the outside curve of the 1st block, pinning as you go.



As you reach the ends where the intersection squares meet up, make sure the seams line up. If they aren't, it will be very noticeable once you finish sewing and flip the blocks back over.



Here's another angle.



Now, one thing you might notice once you get to the end is that the intersection squares don't seem to line up properly. THIS IS GOOD. In fact, the one on top should be exactly 1/4" too long. We aren't trying to match the raw edge of the top intersection square with the finished seam of the bottom intersection square. Instead, we want to match it up with the raw edge of the bottom intersection square....the one that tucked away neatly below the finished seam. You want to make the raw edges of both squares line up like you see in the picture below.

Why is this? Because we'll need this extra 1/4" as a seam allowance when attaching the 1st and 2nd rows together. Dont' worry - it will all make sense when we start assembling the quilt top in 2 weeks. Promise.



Alright. Now flip your block back over to the side with the paper templates (mine has been flipped over, you just can't tell in the photo because there's no paper on the intersection squares - only the arcs). DO NOT start sewing at the raw edge of the intersection square. We need that 1/4" overhang free for when we attach the rows.

Instead, start sewing at the seam that's 1/4" down from the edge. See photo below.



When you're finished, flip the block back over and press the seam flat. You block should look perfectly lined up, except for that one 1/4" seam allowance dangling past the edge on each side of the block.



Your first two blocks should look like this once attached...



Grab your 3rd block and line it up with your fledgling row. Repeat the same steps you used to attach the 1st and 2nd blocks.


When you're finished, the row should now look something like this...


 Grab your 4th and final block (nosey dog not required for this step) and attach just as you did the others.



Congratulations! You've completed your first row! Row 3 is an exact duplicate of this one, but rows 2 and 4 are much easier to assemble because they contain only partial blocks and there aren't as many complicated seams to match up.



In case you want a better look at the finished product, here's a closeup of the front...



...and a shot of the back as well.



As always, feel free to post any questions in the comments or email me directly :)
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