Pretty Little Pouch Swap

A woven pouch I created for the Pretty Little Pouch Swap – pattern coming soon!

Grab 'n' Go Wristlet

My original wristlet pattern featuring a charming pleat detail and two sizes.

Double Wedding Ring Quilt Along

Quilt along with me and make your own double wedding ring quilt.

Box Pouch Tutorial

All the details you need to make a cute and functional box pouch.

Quilted Hexie Pouch

Check out this free pattern I created for Bag Lady Week at Obsessive Crafting Disorder

Showing posts with label tutorials. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorials. Show all posts

Friday, March 9, 2012

"Paper" Hat Tutorial


I’ve got a brand spankin’ new tutorial for you guys today! It’s a reusable "paper" hat for kids made out of some fabric, interfacing, and safety pins or thread.

Since I don’t have any kids yet, Whiskers served as my model because he has a giant head the size of a small child’s, so it worked out pretty well. Ray was standing in the background laughing at me as I was trying to take this picture, because it took about 15 tries. Ray disagrees, but I actually think Whiskers enjoyed it because he saw it as a fun game. I think his inner monologue went a little something like this…Okay, she puts the hat on me, I sit here guardedly still for about 2-3 seconds, and then I flip out and buck around the sofa like a bronco. Delightful!

"Paper" Hat Tutorial

I'm really excited about this pattern because it's very kid friendly, and you can involve them in the process as much as you want! You can have them help you with the cutting, ironing and sewing (because it's really easy), or you can bring them in later at the folding part. Here's what you'll need...
  • Two 13.25" x 17" pieces of fabric
  • Two 13.25" x 17" pieces of fusible interfacing (I used Pellon 931TD)
  • Coordinating thread
  • 4 safety pins, or thick thread (depends on how you want to secure the ends)
I don't have pictures of the first few steps, because they're so easy I didn't really think it was necessary. Alright, so the first step is to fuse the interfacing to the back of each of your pieces of fabric. Then you'll put the two pieces of interfaced fabric right sides together, and sew a 1/4" seam around all four sides, leaving a small 3" opening. Clip the corners and turn the fabric right side out. Fold in the raw edges of your opening, and topstitch around the entire rectangle. When you're done, you should have a panel that measures 12.75" x 16.5" and looks like this...

007



If you didn't have your kids help you with the sewing, here's where you can bring them in on the project. Take your rectangle, and fold it in half along the long edge (will be 8.25" x 12.75" once folded).



008 

Fold down one of the corners, leaving about an inch and a half at the bottom.

 010

Repeat for the other corner.

 011


On both the front and the back, fold up that 1.5" flap you left at the bottom.


012 



Now, you have two options for securing the flaps and finishing the hat. You can take the quick and dirty route and safety pin them in place... OR you can teach your kids a little bit about hand sewing, and have them secure the four corners with a stitch or two using some embroidery thread or regular hand-sewing thread. It really depends on how old your kids are, and how much time you want to spend on the project :)

006


So there you have it! These come together really quickly, and I'm actually whipping up about a dozen of them for a friend to use as favors at her daughter's birthday party next weekend.  I'm sewing up the rectangles for her, and she's going to have "craft time" during the party and show the kids how to fold and pin their own hats to take home - FUN!

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Pumpkin Patch Table Runner

Remember these blocks? Well now they've turned been into this:



I've had this idea in my brain since last Fall (linen background and all), but after I caught a glimpse of Aneela's adorable (and almost identical) runner, I almost didn't go through with it because I didn't want to seem like a big fat ripoff!

...but eventually, after a lot of debating, I decided to finish the pattern because I know I didn't copy anything, and I wanted to share a fun fall project with you guys!

Also, I designed the back so that you can reverse the runner if you so choose (always convenient when there's a food stain, lol!)

The downloadable pdf is below. You're welcome to use it for your home or for sale in SMALL quantities, but please don't mass produce this for profit. Thanks :)
Pumpkin Patch Table Runner

Friday, September 30, 2011

One more thing...


Keep your eyes peeled, because I'm going to be posting a free pattern sometime next week to keep you busy while I'm gone to the Sewing Summit ;)

What could it be? Will there be more? All in good time....

 Baby Punkin'


Big Mama Punkin'

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Back-to-School series: Hand-Sewing


If you're interested in learning more about hand sewing, you should check out my guest post today on Sarah's adorable blog Sew Sweetness. I'm teaching the three hand stitches that have proven to be the most useful to me over the past 5 years, and they also happen to be three of the easiest stitches out there - gotta love that, right? ;)

While you're stopping by, you should browse through the other Back-to-School posts. It's a really great series that covers basic sewing techniques. Sometimes we as bloggers lose touch with reality and assume people have a broader working knowledge that they really do, so I think it was a genius idea for her to dedicate this month to "the basics" for people who are just starting out and might not be familiar with all the jargon. (...or for people like me who are rusty on a couple techniques because I haven't used them in a looong time).

I spent some time surfing around her blog this morning, and stumbled across a fabulous post about working within your sewing budget and being more economical with your supplies here. She has some great tips and it's definitely worth a read!

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Apple Core Apron Tutorial


I've always loved the Apple Core pattern, but am entirely too lazy to ever cut out all those individual curved pieces by hand. So when I was choosing my dies for the GO! Baby and saw they had an Apple Core one, I was on it like a monkey on a cupcake.


When I was thinking about what kind of tutorial I wanted to make using this die, I thought it would be cute to do something kitchen related considering the name. What could be cuter than baking whilst wearing an Apple Core apron made with vintage-inspired fabrics? I was also thinking about the upcoming holiday season and how much I'm looking forward to Fall baking, so I thought some of you might like a new apron :)

This apron has a layer of flannel quilted to the front to give it a little weight and added texture, but you can skip this step if you'd prefer a lighter, more flouncy apron.

MATERIALS
  • Twenty-four 7 1/16" x 5 3/8" Apple Cores
  • 17.5" x 26.5" piece of backing fabric
  • 19" x 28" piece of flannel
  • One 21" x 4.5" piece (for the waist band)
  • Two 32" x 4.5" pieces (for the ties)

Ready? Let's go! You will need to arrange your 24 pieces into 4 rows of 6. Once you have your pieces arranged how you'd like them, grab your first two pieces and line them up at the center. If you're using pieces you cut by hand (obviously they won't have the handy little notches), then you'll need to fold your pieces in half and finger press the seam to create a center marker.


Next you'll need to line up the outside edges and pin.


Once you have the center and ends pin, ease the remaining fabric around the curve of the bottom fabric and pin. When working with curves, the fabric has a mind of it's own, and it helps to pin as close to the edge as possible to keep it from shifting.


Sew together using a 1/4" seam. Clip small notches along the seam to create some "give" to the fabric.


Fold the pieces back and press.


Grab your next piece, line up the centers, and piece as you did the first two. 


 Repeat this process until you've assembled all 4 rows.


Next we'll attach the rows together. The first step is to line up all six of the center notches (or seams - depending on whether you're using GO! Baby pieces or not). Once I had row 2 lying face-down on top of row 1, I started by lining up the centers of vertical pieces first, and then pulling down the horizontal pieces to line up. Once you have all of the centers lined up an pinned, start working the remaining edges into place.

Here's what my two rows looked line once I had the centers pinned in place...


And here are the rather squirrely-looking rows once I finished pinning everything together...


 Sew the rows together using 1/4" seam, easing your way around the curves. Once finished, clip notches along your seams, fold open and press.


Here's what the first two rows look like once attached...


And here's what your finished front panel should look like...

 

Once the front panel is finished, you'll need to square up the sides. Line up your ruler with the inside curves and trim the excess.



Repeat for the other three sides and square up the entire panel. It should be about 26.5" x 17.5" when finished.


 Spray an adhesive like 505 onto the flannel piece, and smooth the front piece on top of it.


Quilt the layers together however you like (I used Free Motion, but Straight Line our Outline quilting will work). When you're finished, trim the excess flannel from the sides.


You can do this next part on your machine, but I prefer to do it by hand. There's no right or wrong method - just a matter of preference. At the top of both the front piece and back piece, make a running stitch all the way across about 1/8" down from the edge.


Grab the loose ends of your thread, and start pushing your fabric evenly toward the center so that it gathers and creates little pleats. You want to gather your fabric until the top measures about 20" wide across the top.



Sew an 1/8" seam across the top to set the seats in place. You may need to help hold your fabric in place so that the foot doesn't push the fabric flat as it sews over it.


Once you've finished gathering the tops of both pieces, place your front and back fabric together, right sides facing. Pin in place and sew 1/2" seam around the sides and bottom - leave the top completely open.


Trim the corners to reduce bulk, and flip right side out through the opening at the top.


 Edge stitch along the three finished sides to secure.


 Grab your 21" x 4.5" piece (for the waist band) and fold in half, wrong sides together. Press to set.


 Fold the long edges in by 1/4" and press to set.


 Your waist band piece should look something like this when you're finished...


 Now grab your two 32" x 4.5" pieces (for the ties). Fold in half right sides together and press to set.


Sew one of the short ends closed using a 1/4" seam, pivot the foot, and continue sewing down the long open edge. When you get to the end, stop sewing and leave the remaining short end open.


 Trim the corner down to reduce bulk, and turn right side out through the opening. Repeat for the other tie.



Press the ties in place and edge stitch along the long side with the seam.


 Grab your waist band piece, and fold one of the short edges in by 1/2".


Place one of your ties on top of the waist band so that they overlap by 1/2", and fold the waist band down so that the tie is sandwiched between it. Make sure the end snuggled inside the waist band is the raw end of the tie.


Pin in place and sew together. I sewed 1/8" from the edge, moved the needle to the left, and sewed another seam 1/8" from the first one. (since there will be a lot of tugging on the waist and ties, I made two seams to make sure it's nice and secure). Repeat on the other end of the waist band with the remaining tie.


At this point, the apron is finished except for closing off the raw top edge of the apron, and the raw bottom edge of the waist band. Tuck the top of the apron into the waist band by 1/4" and pin in place. Make sure the raw edges of the waist band remain tucked up inside.


Sew the waist band and apron together using an 1/8" seam.


Go back, and sew a second seam 1/8" above the first seam.


 Here's what the front and back will look like when you're finished...



 You now have a lovely finished apron :)



 And the best part is, since it's fully lined on the back, it's technically reversible! Huzzah for choices :)

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...
Twitter Delicious Facebook Digg Stumbleupon Favorites More